A paramotor is a motorized paraglider. It is not an airplane and does not fly like one. The motor fits on the back of the pilots. This simplest of all powered aircraft consist of small – 2 stroke or 4 stroke petrol engine driving a propeller, worn like a back pack under a paraglider wing and providing thrust to take off, climb and maintain level flight. Once airborne, the paramotor can be used to motor along and watch the world go by beneach you or, if condition permit soared in thermal or lift to make long cross country flights. The motor can be stopped and restarted in the air – many types have electric starters – enabling the pilot to adapt his or her flight to the prevailing conditions.
With the paramotor unit disconnected before take off, the wing becomes just another paraglider, offering the freedom and excitement of engineless flight. Many paramotor pilots are paraglider pilots looking for more flexibility in their flying, many others are new to flying but become interested in paramotoring and pure paragliding flight.

Everyone is talking about paramotoring. What is so special about it? Another hype?
One thing is for sure, the “aeroplane in the boot of the car” is catching the public’s imagination. There is no doubt that a paramotor is the minimum powered aircraft par excellence. Only the rocketeer’s backpack could beat it!.

Foot-launching is a great asset. It is all terrain aviation: Pebbled or sandy beaches, ploughed or cropped fields, snow covered or flooded land and the roofs of royal palaces are all suitable surfaces for paramotor operation. The short turning radius, combined with slow flying speed makes even a cricket pitch size field surrounded by trees a safe place to fly from. For the existing paraglider pilot, it is a practical add-on means of self launching: no need to drive miles to a crowded hill, chasing the wind or lift. The main advantage is that he or she already possesses the wing and knows how to fly it.

Of course it is not the real thing! Nothing can beat paragliding on the right day in the right place. Petrol smells, oil sticks, noise is a pain and the ozone layer is thinning. Saying that, driving 50 miles to a hill and burning 4 gallons of petrol getting there is surely worse than using a pint of 50:1 mixture around the corner for half an hour of thermal seeking on your airborne lawn mower. The other useful side of paramotoring for purist paraglider pilots is the possibility to experiment with different conditions and locations: sea breezes, wave, over water or above clouds, etc. Flying onto an unlaunchable hill is great. Retrieving oneself is also possible. Self sustaining and self launching sailplanes exist for exactly these reasons.

Ridge soaring close to the hill is a buzz. A paramotor allows you to do the same thing over flat ground. Chasing foxes and rabbits, following rivers, slaloming through trees, dragging a foot through powdery snow or long dewy grass is fantastic.

The main drawback with all powered flying is the noise pollution, not so much for your ears, but vis-a-vis the neighbours. It is essential not to spoil existing harmonious relationships which BHPA clubs & schools have enjoyed (or struggled to keep) so far, by the nature of its environmental friendliness. Consideration when choosing where you take off from and who you over-fly is critical for the long term survival of paramotoring. It is easy for an individual to approach a land owner for permission to fly in small numbers. Paramotors should operate in a diluted format throughout the country and avoid overcrowded repeated buzzing around.

The first paramotors appeared in France and Germany in the late eighties. They used heavy, thirsty twin or 3-cylinder engines with direct drives. The 30-plus kg weight and unbearable noise made them unattractive. With the increase in performance which the recent generations of paragliders have at their disposal, less power is needed so smaller lighter one-cylinder 2-stroke engines can be used, resulting in weight reductions to under 20 Kg.

Reduction drives allow larger, slower spinning propellers (or more blades) to be used, thus reducing noise and increasing thrust, but unfortunately adding a little weight.
The propeller’s design is important. Wood is the most common material, while plastic, composite and aluminium may also be used. A multitude of forms and tip shapes are used with various degrees of success. In any case a balanced propeller is essential to avoid vibrations and damage to the reduction assembly.

Most paramotors used to be cantilevered, and some still are. This means they have rigid suspension arms from which the pilot hangs, forward of the paraglider attachments. This compensates for the weight of the engine. The advantage of this system is to relieve the pilot of the weight of the paramotor once airborne. The drawbacks are a higher paraglider hang point than when paragliding, preventing you from reaching big ears or sometimes the brakes and, most critically, a more difficult inflation.
Some paramotors simply hang on the back of a paraglider harness, with the pilot carrying the extra weight on the ground as well as when airborne: short flight guaranteed!

Various systems have been tried to find a compromise between a low paraglider hang point and suspension of the paramotor, such as under-arm cantilevers. However, the higher centre of gravity may decrease the pendular stability and amplify the torque effect: nicer if underpowered.
A very popular system, now used by various manufacturers, is to plug the paramotor onto rigid tubes which are attached to each side of the harness at chest level, with shoulder attachments to stop the paramotor swinging back. This system allows good access to the risers and offers comfort on launch and when airborne.

Early paramotors had protective frames in front of the pilot to prevent being crushed in the event of a forward crash. In practice, people tend to fall backward, if at all, so those protective frames have almost disappeared.
The cage prevents the suspension lines getting caught in the propeller while launching or in the event of a canopy collapse. The netting is only needed in front of the cage, as the blown air behind keeps the lines at bay. A smooth cage periphery allows the lines to slide upwards easily for successful canopy inflation.

The hand throttle normally includes a cut off switch and the electric start button, if fitted. A left hand throttle is preferable for two reasons: Your right hand is free to take pictures (there are no left hand cameras!) and your left hand may be busy anyway on the brakes to compensate for torque. Mouth-throttles are sometimes used, and incorporate a mercury switch to cut off the engine when the throttle is dropped.

An electric start has a lot of advantages: It’s nice to be able to switch off in a thermal and restart later. The ability to start the engine when standing up ready to go is also very useful. Without it, if you are on your own, you need to hand start the engine on the ground (with the paramotor not blowing the paraglider away), sit in the harness, strap yourself in, stand up, sort out brakes and risers, then go. Not as easy as it may sound. Most engines have a minimum electrical system – just enough to provide a spark. Electric start batteries are typically Ni-Cads, charged from the mains. Some manufacturers may claim that their paramotor can be hand/foot started in the air. Although it may be possible to do in ideal conditions, in practice it doesn’t often work and can even be dangerous if back-firing. Various types of de-compressors help with the starting of engines, manual or automatic.

Some paramotors have centrifugal clutches, meaning that only when you apply power will the propeller rotate. The idea is that a light flexible cage can be used, allowing the odd crash without bending the cage and exploding the propeller. However, a flexible cage can be tricky. When leaning forward too much on inflation against the suspension lines, a flexible cage could deform back and come in contact with the propeller. A full frontal deflation under power is also the ultimate test for the cage. The most common crash on a paramotor is when the pilot lifts his or legs too early on take-off, resulting with a bum landing with the full revving propeller digging trenches. In this instance a clutch cannot help.

Integral moulded petrol tanks have the advantage of high capacity and space/weight saving. The ability to close the venting of the petrol tank while transporting it in the car is essential. Fuel economy is very important. Not just for the running cost but for the fact that the amount of fuel needed for a long flight is extra weight on launch (10 litres = 7 kg). Air filters are commonly used, sometimes with air intake mufflers which also reduce noise.

The main problem is that the thrust is applied to the pilot and not the wing. When a paraglider is designed, the drag given by the pilot is unfortunately affecting the overall geometry and trim. If you could magically remove the drag of the pilot the canopy would hang back and would need retrimming. In effect, this is what happens when you apply some thrust, you cancel that drag. So when climbing, not only is your attitude (angle canopy/horizon) greater but so is your angle of attack. Furthermore, the line of thrust being angled upwards, your apparent weight (resultant weight & thrust) will decrease, thus unloading the wing while the weight of the canopy remains the same! This also contributes to an increase of the angle of attack. One may experience some oscillations or Dutch Roll. The use of speed trims or stirrup when under full power is useful to bring the canopy back to a correct trim.
With the engine switched off, the extra drag of the cage does the opposite, i.e. allowing the canopy forward to a faster trim.

The torque effect is the first thing one notices. The canopy may want to turn right (counterclockwise propeller) as if weight shifting. Right brake must be applied with moderation or else you will perform a wingover. Left brake must also be applied with moderation to prevent a spin. An easy answer to unpleasant power effects is to simply reduce power!
Some simple devices can reduce or eliminate the torque effects such as a diagonal adjustable cross-braced strap, a longer carabiner to the right riser or asymmetrical speed trims.

Noise is obviously a problem not only for your neighbour 1 mile away but your own ear drums a foot away. Ear defenders are essential.
Nobody really knows what are the implication of petrol or oil on the canopy, the lines, the harness and parachute etc… The vibrations of the paramotor may affect your fasteners: quicklinks, parachute release pins etc.

The high revving propeller carries an obvious amount of danger not only to you but also to the public. If the propeller breaks while airborne (for instance following damage on launch) there is a risk of structural damage to the wing. Extra line from the brake handle must be tied or cut to avoid hitting the propeller when forward inflating.

After landing, one must resist the temptation of carrying the canopy over one’s shoulder if the hot exhaust is on that side! Finally, a paramotor allows you to fly through the wake of your own wing and propeller with possible unpleasant bumps and a horrible exhaust.

Paramotor contains many spare parts and also main parts :
1. Engine                          5. Frame                          9. Harness                           13. Propeller                          17. Exhaust
2. Carburator                  6. Piston                          10. Fuel Tank                      14. Frame Extension            18. Motor Block
3. Cylinder                       7. Reductor                     11. Ignition                          15. Cooling system                19. Starter
4. Inlet                              8. Throtthle Control     12. Air Box                           16. wing

And many other spare parts inside Paramotor itself

Every one could fly in Paramotor as long as they have good and fit body condition, they have no special desease and also heart attack. Man and woman could fly Paramotor. For children, 15 years old is good to start flying Paramotor

There are 2 (systems) to learn Paramotor :
Learn with Paragliding
Learn without Paragliding

Its all depens on :

Instuctor
Location (if there is hill or just flat area)

Courses from us take around seven to ten days for would-be paramotor pilots with no paragliding experience, as some time is needed to train them in the safe control of a paraglider canopy. A full course would cover launching the canopy, airspeed control, turning, approaching and landing and controlling the canopy safely on the ground. With these skills under your belt your instructor will then turn to the power unit and train you in assembly and disassembly (for easy transport this, not a major stripdown!), starting, throttle control, fuel mixing, maintenance, torque and thrust effects and certain essential cautions. The two elements will then be put together to teach you powered flight. You will also be instructed in basic principles of flight, meteorology, aviation law (quite severe airspace restrictions apply to paramotor use) and navigation.